Milan surfs on a wave of elegance and sensuality

Among the less scrutinized shows of this spring-summer 2023 fashion week, which took place from September 20 to 26, the proposals alternated between off-road elegance on the one hand and, for the three new designers of this season, an eminently sexy. on the other hand.

Max Mara looks towards the Riviera, where, a century ago, Pablo Picasso, Joséphine Baker, Isadora Duncan… and also Renée Perle crossed paths. This Romanian-born model, who was the muse of photographer Jacques-Henri Lartigue, inspired designer Ian Griffiths with bare backs, high-waisted sailor pants, wide straw hats like suns, bucket skirts: a display of carefree elegance totally soluble in The DNA of Max Mara. The pure lines of architect Eileen Gray’s villa E-1027, built in 1929 in Roquebrune-Cap-Martin, can be found in the raw, untreated, undyed linen ensembles, or the jackets with patch pockets in blue Mediterranean. Sleek stainless steel doesn’t preclude concessions at the time, namely some cleverly distilled crop tops and platform shoes. Meanwhile, the younger Sportmax line takes a bold, experimental turn with unstructured lingerie dresses, chic 1970s prints, and oversized fluorescent suits.

Max Mary.

For his part, Brunello Cucinelli imagines “an explorer” in a very luxurious version, a fan of beige, white or black suits, sometimes enhanced with sequins. Without trellises or technical materials in this house specializing in cashmere and handmade fabrics, some are unique pieces intended for collectors, like works of art. Stripes, rope details and nautical-inspired hats alternate with utility pants with pockets, linen shorts and hiking boots. An off-road wardrobe, yet divinely refined.

Brunello Cucinelli.
Jill Sander.

In Jil Sander, Luke and Lucie Meier have mastered their sleek minimalist wardrobe, this time inspired by the contradictions of California: Hollywood glamor against the calm of the great outdoors. Worn by baggy suits, sleeveless jackets worn over short, form-fitting dresses, the collection multiplies sidesteps: mirrors are embedded in skirts, large sequins punctuate bodices and dresses from bustiers, and twirling fringes escape from the skirts.

seduction games

Marco de Vincenzo, who arrived at Etro in June, had no time to rummage through the archives for his first collection. Il livre donc sa vision de la griffe, distillée avec les eléments que ont fait succès del him quand il était à la tête de sa propre maison: d’un côté, du denim richement décoré, de l’autre, des cashmires tie & dye aux vivid colors. The profusion of ideas makes this first draft cheerful but also a bit incoherent. No doubt the designer will have a chance to solve them for the next try.

Also read: Fashion Week: Milan dresses up

Bally, the Italian specialist in bags and shoes, took to the catwalks with a first collection signed by the Californian of Filipino origin Rhuigi Villaseñor. Known for his streetwear brand Rhude, the 30-year-old presented his vision of opulence and sexy tinged with all-Italian elegance: short, cut-out dresses, suits over a simple bra, little gold leather jackets, ultra-high cut. swimsuits…

Finally, at Ferragamo, Maximilian Davis, appointed in March 2022, presented his first collection. A graduate of the London College of Fashion, the 27-year-old Englishman succeeds Paul Andrew. Among classic pieces, such as baggy suits, little black dresses or suede jackets, Davis multiplies sexy winks: second-skin jumpsuits, transparent mesh tops or even short dresses. An exercise on a tightrope that will undoubtedly have to find its balance in the coming seasons.

Also read: The 2000s make their eternal return to Milan Fashion Week

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